Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Day 2: Paper Machete Heads and Black Shoe Polish

The second day, I joined them around noon, but the party had, once again, started earlier. After more waiting and talking, we went out to the little alleyway outside the bride's parents' home, where the craziness began. Large paper machete heads with the appearance of a Chinese toddler were placed on heads, and a donkey made out of material and worn around the waist began galloping around, if a donkey can gallop! The woman pictured below wanted to make sure that we were coming that Saturday, and we soon found out why...there was to be a parade from the parents' home to the new couple's new home, and the donkey and paper machete heads, worn by us, were to lead the parade!
Heavy and large, the heads provided limited visibility, but the observers didn't seem to mind. If they felt like we were moving too slowly, they slapped the top and told us to walk faster. Or if somebody thought we moved too quickly, they had the full right to slap the head and yell at us to move more slowly! Not only was speed important, apparently entertainment was too, because another reason to pound on the top of my head was to tell me to dance or move around more and make more of a fool of myself! I felt like I was wearing a football helmet, between the limited visibility and getting slapped on the top of my head, the difference being that the coaches all seemed to be on the playing field, and there was no strategy to win!
Just behind us, the bride rode in a traditional sedan chair, carried by 8 men and women. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see much of her, because of my helmet! At one point, I lifted it up to see my friend and be able to take this picture. Just after snapping the picture, my "head" was slammed back down and I was spun around to face forward again, with the instructions, "Turn around! You can't do that! Dance more! Faster! Faster!"
Just before arriving at the new home, we ran into the groom and his best man. Chained together, their faces were both smeared with black with shoe polish all over. The chains must have been somewhat heavy, because every time I saw them, they were holding them up to protect their necks. The black shoe polished seemed to qualify the two of them for any sort of abuse or teasing anybody felt like giving them, so every once in a while, one of them received a big slap to the head.
After more pictures with the bride in their new home while her husband waited on the curb outside, still chained to his friend, the new couple entered their new home. I left at this point, but the party continued with games and other festivities until much later. You can barely see the two of them together below, with all the family and friends crowded around watching.
What a great experience! I still laugh about it, and have a feeling it will be one of those stories that will be told over and over again.

You can watch a video of the parade here.

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